Admin: TilCreator (owner is still Nerade (and Pfoet))

Ask before use
Make sure to ALWAYS wear chemically resistant gloves and eye protection!

Software

Prusa slicer

recommended for adding supports, but slicing directly to the photon file format is sadly not supported (jet)

Setup

  • Clone the SL1 profile
    • Change the build plate and screen size to width 68.04mm and height 120.96mm
  • Clone the "0.05 Normal" print profile
    • Change Supports > Max bridges on a pillar to 5
    • Change Pad > Pad wall slope to 60°

Tips

  • The output can be exported as a stl with supports, this allows slicing in another program

Chitubox

works okish for slicing, but the software is just bad and proprietary / has a paied pro version

Setup

  • Choose the default Anycubic Photon profile

SL1toPhoton

Tool to convert the sliced output of Prusa Slicer to the photon file format, still needs testing.

Usage

Leveling

New (silver) build plate

  • Take out the vat
  • Put a pice of paper on the screen
  • loosen the buildplate ball joint and spring with an alon key (the screw on the side)
  • home without the buidplate
  • screw on the buildplate
  • lower the buildplate to half the spring movement (push the loose build plate in by hand to get a feel for that)
  • fasten the buildplate ball joint and spring
  • raise the buildplate until you can just move the pice of paper
  • select the "zero z" option
  • remove the paper and reinstall the vat

Old (blue) build plate

Video

  • Take out the vat
  • Put a pice of paper on the screen
  • loosen the buildplate ball joint with an alon key
  • home without the buidplate
  • screw on the buildplate
  • lower the buildplate until the pice of paper is barely moving
  • fasten the buildplate ball joint
  • select the "zero z" option
  • remove the paper and reinstall the vat

Slicing

This list is non exaustive, but should keep you from damaging the printer, take a look at other tutorials for stuff like hollowing.

  • Minimize the connected surface the printer is printing in one layer by tilting the model, this is to minimize the sucking force the printer has to overcome when pulling the layer of the film. (When this can't be avoided, hollowing may be a good option, but don't forget a drainage hole, else it will make the sucking worse)
  • Add supports and make sure that the print is not directly on the buildplate, only the supports. The automatic supports are a good start, but one probably needs more, there almost never can be too much support

Printing

  • Make sure the resine is mixed properly, eighter shake the bottle or stirr the resine in the vat if it is already full, else the pigments will settle at the bottom of the vat and ruin your first layer.
  • Make sure there is enough resine in the vat, can be roughtly calculated by measuring the height. Also don't add too much, the buildplate still has to fit.
  • Make sure the vat is free from any previous print fails, this can easily lead to damage on the printer!
  • Make sure the printer is leveled, also keep your finger near the off switch on the first homing.
  • Start the print in the menu
  • Don't disturb the print and wait (pausing the print makes a failure more likely, not that bad when using a raft, but only for the first few layers)
  • You can hear if your print sticks, listen for poping sounds when the buildplate rises, bigger connected surfaces (more sucking)

Cleaning up

  • Use the plastic scraper to release the print from the build plate
  • Put the print in the basket of the Wash and Cure
  • Put the basket in the Iso Prop container and wash the prints for a few minutes, the complexer the print the longer
  • (While the print is washing) Clean the buildplate and make sure there aren't any print fails left in the vat!
  • Remove the supports, a small knife can be useful
  • Cure the print on the platform of the Wash and Cure, longer is always better, the Wash and Cure doesn't have the power to damage the print with UV light anyway

Telegram blog thing about the printer form TilCreator

Adonal's resin printing FAQ